Saturday, October 31, 2009

Monte Bondone

Monte Bondone, the mountain range to the west of Trento, affectionately called Trento's alp, is one of the region's main attractions. With skiing in winter and hiking almost year round, outdoor activities abound in the higher elevations. Past hotels, cottages, ski-lifts and scenic views, the mountain road winds up and around through the resort towns of Candrai, Vaneze, and Vason, climbing higher and higher, finally reaching the vast plain and the località Viote.

Take note of the restaurant here, Capanna Viote, the single building within view of the road, because a stop here at some point during your visit is a must. Whether for a full meal, say, a typical Trentino dish, like goulash di cervo con polenta (venison goulash with polenta-the best!), a fresh dessert (I recommend the strudel di mela, apple strudel) or just a quick drink at the bar (un caffè or una birra alla spina), whatever you're in the mood for, your expectations will be met!

From here, your adventure is just beginning. For the more adventurous, there are plenty of hiking trails leading to the high peaks-Il Palone to the north and the Natural Reserve of the Tre Cime towards the south, with spectacular views like the one below of the Brenta Dolomites. And for those looking for something less strenuous and little more leisurely, there's the Center for Alpine Ecology, an educational and wildlife rehabilitation center, and the Alpine Botanical Garden, a collection of alpine flowers, plants and even mushrooms.
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More to come!

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Vorrei uno spritz

While sitting outside one of the bars that line the perimeter of Piazza Duomo in Trento, you'll start to notice that at almost every table there is someone sipping a refreshing-looking orange drink. A spritz is a combination of the italian aperativo, Aperol (though there is also a version made with Campari), and the italian sparkling wine, Prosecco, on ice. A seemingly extremely popular beverage, there is also a non-alcoholic version called Gingerino, which is available in supermarkets, too. Oh, and by the way, uno spritz, I am told, is always served with potato chips.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Lago di Garda, Riva del Garda e Torbole

Palm trees swaying in cool, lakeside breezes; olive trees basking in warm, comforting sunlight; mountains and swimmers alike plunging into the fresh blue waters-a stay in Trentino would not be complete without a visit to the northern shore of Italy's largest lake, Lago di Garda.

It's difficult to say which is the better route to take to the lake's northern bank. While the route from the north through the Valle dei Laghi, past the stunning castles of Arco and Drena and the boulder field near the Marocche di Dro, may be more interesting and scenic, the route from the east (though there are some points of interest along the way, the old church in the village of Mori with its over-sized clock comes to mind) offers a spectacular view of the lake from above, just past the village of Nago, as the road, lined with olive trees, descends toward the lakeside resort towns of Torbole and Riva del Garda below.

Connecting the two towns is a walking/bike path yielding easy access to crisp, clean beaches, parks and exotic gardens, and access to all kinds of watersports. The steady winds from the south provide an ideal environment for windsurfing and sailing (Riva del Garda is said to be Europe's windsurfing capital). Boats and equipment are available for rent from the many shops and stands set up along the lake, with lessons available as well.

Large glass windshields, evidence of the wind's potential strength, protect the lakeside restaurants and cafés, maintaining an enchanting view and atmosphere without disrupting a meal or a casual conversation over a relaxing beverage. Riva, with its walled city center, has perhaps the highest concentration of tourist shops in the province, selling multi-colored and multi-shaped pastas, local wines and limoncino, hats and t-shirts, etc. Lakeside activities aside, other attractions include the Torre d'Apponale, which is occasionally open to tourists, the Rocca di Riva, a moated fortress with a small museum inside (Museo Civico la Rocca), and a reptile museum for those interested in snakes, scorpions and such (Reptiland). The towns of Arco and Tenno nearby offer many more things do to, hiking and rock climbing, for example, and each has its own unique historic and cultural attractions-castles and museums, markets and shopping, and gardens and an arboretum.

From Riva del Garda, all points south on the lake are easily accessible via the various ferry lines that arrive and depart regularly from its busy port, linking Riva to other lakeside towns and villages of Lombardia and Veneto. Limone sul Garda in Lombardia, famous for its lemon groves cultivated since Roman times and Limoncino, a crisp, fresh digestivo, and Malcesine in Veneto, with cable car access to Monte Baldo at over 1700 meters above the lake, are some nearby popular destinations.

Tip: Ferry service is seasonal, check the schedules with the various operators to be sure that there is a ferry if you plan on being there in late fall, winter or early spring.

Tip: Buses depart regularly from Trento, but take different routes to Riva. If there is a particular route you wish to take, be sure to check the stops/schedule and make a note of any changes (either at Rovereto, Sarche or Arco).