Il giardino botanico alpino

Set in front of a backdrop of tree-lined ridges and rolling, grass-covered hills and only a short walk from the crossroads of Viote, the alpine botanical garden, with its impressive variety of alpine plants, flowers and even 'painted' mushrooms from all over the world, offers a pleasant morning or afternoon in crisp, clean mountain air. Though perhaps best viewed in summer when most plants are in full bloom, early fall also deserves a visit as colors change and the plants begin to fade with the approaching winter. Gravel paths wind around past the meticulously labeled folliage, displayed in a natural setting-some among rocks, others among trees or aside a mountain pond.

Links:

Il museo tridentino di scienze naturali

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Monte Bondone

Monte Bondone, the mountain range to the west of Trento, affectionately called Trento's alp, is one of the region's main attractions. With skiing in winter and hiking almost year round, outdoor activities abound in the higher elevations. Past hotels, cottages, ski-lifts and scenic views, the mountain road winds up and around through the resort towns of Candrai, Vaneze, and Vason, climbing higher and higher, finally reaching the vast plain and the località Viote.

Take note of the restaurant here, Capanna Viote, the single building within view of the road, because a stop here at some point during your visit is a must. Whether for a full meal, say, a typical Trentino dish, like goulash di cervo con polenta (venison goulash with polenta-the best!), a fresh dessert (I recommend the strudel di mela, apple strudel) or just a quick drink at the bar (un caffè or una birra alla spina), whatever you're in the mood for, your expectations will be met!

From here, your adventure is just beginning. For the more adventurous, there are plenty of hiking trails leading to the high peaks-Il Palone to the north and the Natural Reserve of the Tre Cime towards the south, with spectacular views like the one below of the Brenta Dolomites. And for those looking for something less strenuous and little more leisurely, there's the Center for Alpine Ecology, an educational and wildlife rehabilitation center, and the Alpine Botanical Garden, a collection of alpine flowers, plants and even mushrooms.

Links:

Map of Monte Bondone

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More to come!

Vorrei uno spritz

While sitting outside one of the bars that line the perimeter of Piazza Duomo in Trento, you'll start to notice that at almost every table there is someone sipping a refreshing-looking orange drink. A spritz is a combination of the italian aperativo, Aperol (though there is also a version made with Campari), and the italian sparkling wine, Prosecco, on ice. A seemingly extremely popular beverage, there is also a non-alcoholic version called Gingerino, which is available in supermarkets, too. Oh, and by the way, uno spritz, I am told, is always served with potato chips.

Lago di Garda, Riva del Garda e Torbole

Palm trees swaying in cool, lakeside breezes; olive trees basking in warm, comforting sunlight; mountains and swimmers alike plunging into the fresh blue waters-a stay in Trentino would not be complete without a visit to the northern shore of Italy's largest lake, Lago di Garda.

It's difficult to say which is the better route to take to the lake's northern bank. While the route from the north through the Valle dei Laghi, past the stunning castles of Arco and Drena and the boulder field near the Marocche di Dro, may be more interesting and scenic, the route from the east (though there are some points of interest along the way, the old church in the village of Mori with its over-sized clock comes to mind) offers a spectacular view of the lake from above, just past the village of Nago, as the road, lined with olive trees, descends toward the lakeside resort towns of Torbole and Riva del Garda below.

Connecting the two towns is a walking/bike path yielding easy access to crisp, clean beaches, parks and exotic gardens, and access to all kinds of watersports. The steady winds from the south provide an ideal environment for windsurfing and sailing (Riva del Garda is said to be Europe's windsurfing capital). Boats and equipment are available for rent from the many shops and stands set up along the lake, with lessons available as well.

Large glass windshields, evidence of the wind's potential strength, protect the lakeside restaurants and cafés, maintaining an enchanting view and atmosphere without disrupting a meal or a casual conversation over a relaxing beverage. Riva, with its walled city center, has perhaps the highest concentration of tourist shops in the province, selling multi-colored and multi-shaped pastas, local wines and limoncino, hats and t-shirts, etc. Lakeside activities aside, other attractions include the Torre d'Apponale, which is occasionally open to tourists, the Rocca di Riva, a moated fortress with a small museum inside (Museo Civico la Rocca), and a reptile museum for those interested in snakes, scorpions and such (Reptiland). The towns of Arco and Tenno nearby offer many more things do to, hiking and rock climbing, for example, and each has its own unique historic and cultural attractions-castles and museums, markets and shopping, and gardens and an arboretum.

From Riva del Garda, all points south on the lake are easily accessible via the various ferry lines that arrive and depart regularly from its busy port, linking Riva to other lakeside towns and villages of Lombardia and Veneto. Limone sul Garda in Lombardia, famous for its lemon groves cultivated since Roman times and Limoncino, a crisp, fresh digestivo, and Malcesine in Veneto, with cable car access to Monte Baldo at over 1700 meters above the lake, are some nearby popular destinations.

Tip: Ferry service is seasonal, check the schedules with the various operators to be sure that there is a ferry if you plan on being there in late fall, winter or early spring.

Tip: Buses depart regularly from Trento, but take different routes to Riva. If there is a particular route you wish to take, be sure to check the stops/schedule and make a note of any changes (either at Rovereto, Sarche or Arco).

I laghi di Trentino

Whether large or small, natural or man-made, the lakes of Trentino have many things in common. They are scenic, picturesque and beautiful, and, often, offer a place to swim and sail, relax and reflect, or simply give one a comfortable place to enjoy the surrounding mountains, fresh air and comfortable lakeside breezes. Of the following lakes, Garda, Molveno and Caldonazzo are perhaps the most visited, but all are easily reached from Trento, either by train or bus, and are a pleasant diversion for everyone.

Link: Map of the Lakes of Trentino

Lago di Garda













Lago di Caldonazzo













Lago di Molveno













Lago di Serraia

Lago di Piazze

Lago di Santa Giustina

Lago di Toblino

Lago di Lévico













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Salita al Castello - Castel Pérgine

Pérgine, the main municipality of upper Valsugana and the third largest city of Trentino after Trento and Rovereto, acts as a gateway between Valsugana, Val dei Mocheni and Trento and Val d'Adige. Visible from the train, Castel Pérgine, atop a hill, dominates the landscape.

Walking south from the train station past the city center, signposts guide you through the sleepy town as the castle pops into and out of view. Winding upwards through old passageways, along a road and through thick forests, the path leads to a network of trails that criss-cross the hillside. In the woods, a cobblestone path eventually leads to the main road to the castle. A steep hike along the road brings you to the tower and entrance gate. From the top on the castle grounds, which are home to a hotel, restaurant and sculpture garden, is a beautiful view of the city and valley below, also offering a glimpse of the lago di Caldonazzo.

Links:

Castel Pérgine

I castelli

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Il Giro di Sorasass, Cadine, Vela

Il Giro di Sorasass

With its bare, rocky cliffs facing east towards the northern section of Trento, sits Sorasass. Though perhaps the shortest of Trento's surrounding mountains, its steep cliffs offer a near overhead view of the city and the Adige Valley. Running along the edge of the mountain, is an old military road, now a hiking trail (see map below), that passes by many panoramic viewpoints and a couple of recently renovated Austrian fortifications. Signs point the way to other interesting sites and side trails. The Giro di Sorasass is a somewhat popular hike and circles the mountaintop. An 'Urban Trekking' brochure is available from the Trento tourist office, but is a bit misleading in that the hike is not an urban trek at all (Can anything in Trento be considered urban?) and is quite isolated. On a clear morning in early fall, I had the opportunity to visit the area and came across a hunter with two hunting dogs. We chatted and he asked, "Aren't you afraid of the bears?", then he waved his shotgun and said, "I'm not!". Apparently, a bear and a cub had been spotted in the area earlier that week. I nervously continued on while the trio searched for game.

Cadine

The most direct route to Sorasass is via the quiet town of cadine, a suburb of Trento to the west. The old section of the town is built on a small hill, and a newer section with a growing housing development of condos and single family homes
that sits on other side of the main road. As you approach the town from the east and exit the tunnels, look for the imposing fort (Forte bus di Vela) that once guarded the passage between the hills.

Vela

A more challenging route to Sorasass departs from Vela, a small town across the river from Trento. Once out of town, the trail (SAT #627) begins and heads steeply upward and through varied terrain, at times muddy, at times rocky, through thick
woods and past a vineyard. Twin lookout towers above keep watch for who knows what as the trail turns back and begins to wind up the mountainside. Another fall day, hiking upward, I stop to listen, and hear a strange buzzing and loud thrashing. Is that the bear and cub that I had so carefully tried to avoid the month before? No, just a crazy forester on a tractor. The vehicle just barely clings to the trail, inches from the steep cliff, a cart in-tow bouncing uncontrollably behind on the rocky trail. Near the top, the Paganella appears and the trail levels off to meet the Giro di Sorasass.

Tip: Take the #6 bus from the train station. In Cadine the bus stops alongside a bar/gas station, take the road heading north, veer to the left at the cross and follow the signs to the trail.

Tip: Or, take the #2 bus to the end to Vela. From there, follow the main road north, going past the houses and towards the apple orchards. Turn left toward the barricade and look for the red and white SAT trail signs.


Links:
Una camminata sul Sorasass
Le Fortezze dell'Imperatore
Cadine
Map - Il Giro di Sorasass
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View Trento, Italy - Giro di Sorasass in a larger map

Lago di Toblino e Castel Toblino

As you make your way down the scenic trail that runs between the small towns of Padergnone and Sarche, the blue-green waters of Lake Toblino open up. The mountains on either side of the lake, Monte Bondone to the east and the Paganella range to the west, reflecting on the smooth, mirror-like surface, nearly meet at the horizon, as if to beckon you through the valley that extends southward towards Garda Lake.

Halfway down the trail, just off the main shoreline on what is now a small peninsula, sits Castel Toblino, the solitary landmark on the lake. Once the site of a small temple, the castle, as it stands today was rebuilt in the 16th century and is now a well-known restaurant. A fortification dating from the 10th century surrounds the castle grounds and garden, as well as an old carriage house that now serves as a bar. The bar, a pleasant, casual alternative to the more formal restaurant, provides visitors with an opportunity to sit next to the water and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. Bar patrons aren't the only visitors though, be on the lookout for a pair of waterfowl seeking a treat!

Links:

www.casteltoblino.com
Restaurant Review

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