La castagna

As the weather becomes colder and the leaves turn color, signaling a change of seasons, an autumn harvest arrives from the mountains. Streams of smoke rise and the aroma drifts through the city, coming from street corners, street vendors' stands and wherever people get together - churches, schools, festivals - the chestnuts have arrived! As a fire burns below, usually in some kind of old steel can or drum, the chestnuts roast atop a perforated lid, husks removed and skin pierced or cut (so they don't explode!). The outside becomes burnt and is usually removed easily to reveal the flesh inside, ready to be consumed. The chestnuts make their way into supermarkets as well, to be taken home to be baked, boiled or roasted.

In Trento, children learn this nursery rhyme, performing during their school's annual festa della castagna:

Filastrocca della castagna

La castagna non si bagna,

quando piove su in montagna

nel suo riccio imbaccuccata,

al riparo se ne stà.

Quando poi fa capolino,

il momento è ormai vicino,

la stagione è cominciata,

in un sacco finirà.

Chissà chissà la castagna dove andrà.

Chissà chissà la castagna dove andrà.

Nella pentola a bollire

e lessata poi uscire

altrimenti zuccherata,

diventar marron glacè:

in una padella apposta

per chiamarsi caldarrosta,

e le mani di un bambino

se fa freddo scalderà.

(And my attempt at a translation!)

Filastrocca della castagna

The chesnuts don't get soaked,
when it rains up in the mountains
wrapped in their curly cloaks,
inside their wrapping they remain.
When they finally peep their heads out,
the moment will soon be here,
the season has just started,
and in a sack will finish up.
Who knows, who knows where the chestnut will end up.
Who knows, who knows where the chestnut will end up.
Put in a pot to boil
left to cook until they come out
and otherwise are sweetened,
to become chestnut glacè:
then they're put inside a fry pan
to become hot fire-roasted,
and the hands of a small child
if they're cold will become toasty.

Links:

Filastrocca della Castagna

Chestnut Recipes

Roasted Chestnuts: Uncomplicated
Italian festivals: chestnut roasting and nutella at chestnut festival

Divertirsi al parco

Though there are some nice, popular parks within the city of Trento, Piazza Venezia, with its monument to Alcide deGasperi, and Parco Santa Chiara, with its beautiful flower gardens, come to mind, there are larger, quieter parks, each with its own unique atmosphere and panoramic views, just on the outskirts of the city. Somewhat elevated above the city, but not in the mountains, and away from the bustling city streets are Parco di Gocciadoro, Parco delle Coste, Dosso di San Roccco - il bosco della città, each with some pleasant walks and/or easy hiking trails, large open green spaces, parchi giocchi, areas for dogs and, of course, views of the city, Adige valley and surrounding mountains.

Behind S. Chiara hospital is the entrance to Parco di Gocciadoro. A quiet stone path runs along Rio Salè and the shady banks of the shallow gorge. Other trails make their way up to the wide open green areas on either side. Another path behind via Vicenza winds its way uphill alongside an access road, leading to another trail that overlooks the city and runs along the outer edge of the park.

Tip: Take the #7 bus to the end of the line behind S. Chiara hospital. Walk uphill and head toward the overpass and the park entrance.

Parco delle Coste, situated on a hill near the suburb of Cognola, consists of about three levels, each somewhat secluded. A raised, dirt path encircles the lowest level of the park.

Tip: Take the #10 bus past Martignano towards Cognola. Get off after going through Martignano, (località Zell di Cognola) and cross the street to the park entrance. There is no bus service near the lower section of the park.

The largest of these three parks is Dosso di S. Rocco - il bosco della città. Located south of the city, it is full of well-kept trails, lawns and flower gardens, and also has an arboretum with specimens scattered throughout the park. There are several punti panoramici looking out in different directions, with views of the Adige valley southward towards the airport, and northward toward Trento.

Tip: Take the #13 bus to S. Rocco. After crossing the playground, look for a set of stairs going down. Cross the street and head west at the intersection.

Links:
Map - Parks of Trento
More photos - Parks of Trento

Monte Celva

Sitting to the east of Trento between Monte Calisio and la Marzola is the 998m tall, somewhat horn-shaped Monte Celva. With more than a few very steep sections, SAT Hiking trail #419 runs up and down the west and east sides of the mountain through thick wooded areas and at times, rocky paths. On the east side is an old Austrian ex-Osservatorio, built in the late 19th century to keep an eye on any activity in the valley below, Valsugana. Trenches and tunnels, still intact, are sprawled out on a small hill, awaiting exploration. Also worth a visit, sitting closer to the base of the mountain on the south side is Forte Sella di Roncogno and, despite a bit of tasteless graffiti, appears to be fully intact and in excellent condition.

At the summit, a clearing, about 100' in diameter, offers a place to rest and, of course, enjoy the beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. To the west, the peaks of the Brenta Dolomites shoot up from behind the Paganella, with Monte Bondone to the southwest and Valsugana and Lago di Caldonazzo to the southeast. Below, just to the north, lies the small town of Civezzano, identified by its parish church, Peive di Santa Maria Assunta.

Also near the top, near an old military cave and a rather large hole, is a huge, green billboard-like structure. I've seen a couple of these in other places in the area, but still haven't figured out what they are. Anyone have an idea what this is?

Tip: Though the trail on the west side of the mountain has some very steep sections, it's almost better to climb up on this section of the trail than to risk an unintended slide down!

Tip: From the station, take the #5 bus all the way to the end to Oltrecastello. Look for trail markers, red and white signs for SAT trail #419, near the church across from the bus stop.

Links:
Map - Monte Celva
More photos - Monte Celva

Monte Calisio

Directly north of Trento, looking over the city is Monte Calisio. At 1096m, and about a two hour hike to the top, the summit offers beautiful views of Trento, the Adige valley and the surrounding mountains.

Trails encircle the mountain, connecting the surrounding communities, including Villamontagna, Montevaccino, and Civezzano. A hike or mountain bike ride is often faster than public transportation as a way to reach the surrounding towns and localities.

The trail to the summit, once an old military road, gradually ascends, passing viewpoints along the way. Evidence of an active Austrian military remains in the form fortifications, like ex-forte Casara, and caves, once used as weapons caches, carved out of the mountainside.

Tip: From the train station, take the #9 bus to the end of the line at Villamontagna. At the main intersection, turn right and head uphill. Look for the signs for SAT trail #403 that leads to the top of the mountain.

Links:
Map - Monte Calisio Hike
More photos - Monte Calisio

Fare un escursione a piedi

Mountain tops with panoramic views, encounters with wildlife, diverse natural landscapes - all essential elements of a great hike - and just some of the things to experience on the trails on the outskirts of Trento. Imagine, too, walks along old military roads, discovering small monuments or solitary graves while pausing to reflect on what may have brought individuals to these places in the past, plus opportunities to explore old forts and weapons caches. Add to these small towns and churches, pastures with grazing livestock, and mountain inns and refugi, and a hike becomes an interesting diversion and an adventure not to be missed.

From easy, short hikes within the city's local parks to long, difficult and challenging treks upwards towards mountain peaks, hiking opportunities abound in all of Trento's surrounding hills and mountains - all easily accessible by local bus or even cable car. Trails constructed by La Società degli Alpinisti Tridentini (SAT trails), a hiking organization formed in 1872, are very well maintained and marked with red and white signs and painted trail markers. Look for these signs at the end of almost every bus line pointing the way towards an interesting and satisfying outdoor experience.


Short walks and easy hikes:
Dos Trento
Dos Sant'Agata
Dosso di San Rocco e il bosco della città
Parco di Gocciadoro
Parco delle Coste
(Divertirsi al parco)

Medium difficulty and half-day hikes:
Sorasass
Monte Calisio
Monte Celva

Day long, difficult hikes:
La Marzola
Monte Bondone

Links:
Società degli Alpinisti Tridentini
Map of the hills and mountains surrounding Trento

Le Torri di Trento

The towers that still stand guard over Trento today are some of the last remnants of the city's fortifications. Believed to have been built in the early Middle Ages, Torre Vanga and Torre Verde originally served as lookout posts over the Adige River, which has since been diverted. The clock of Torre Civica in Piazza Duomo faces outward in four directions and the bells in the tower chime throughout the day. Each of the towers has been used for various purposes throughout the ages, sometimes serving as storage areas and sometimes as prisons. Extensive renovations have made some usable today and are, at times, opened to the public, housing various exhibits and conferences.

Above: Torre Civica, Torre Verde, Torre della Tromba

Below: Torre d'Augusto, Torre Vanga













Links:
Maps of Trento's Towers
More Photos

Fare un giro in bicicletta

A leisurely bicycle ride in Trentino suggests a ride through beautiful green valleys lined with steep mountains, through vineyards and apple groves, passing by castles, villas and small towns. Paved paths snake their way through most of the valleys in the province, including the Val d'Adige, through which runs the longest bike path in the region.

Easily accessed in Trento, the path runs south along the Adige River towards Verona, and north towards Bolzano and Merano, reaching as far as Innsbruck. When cycling south of Trento, look for gliders taking off in tow and landing at the Aeroporto di Mattarello, Castel Beseno and the Tre Cime and il Palon of Monte Bondone. To the north, the route takes a bit of a detour towards Lavis, then continues through San Michelle all'Adige and Mezzocorona, three communities each worthy of a visit. Look for Monte Mezzocorona, with Castel S. Gottardo carved into the mountainside and a cable car station (both circled in photo), with cars running up steeply from the town below.

Tip: At times, there are long stretches of isolated path with no access points to local roads, stores or fountains. Be sure to bring enough water and food on extended rides.

Tip: Prestabici, in via Canestinni in Trento, minutes from the river and bikepath, rents comfortable bikes for about 3 euros per hour.

Link: Bike paths in Trentino

Il mercato all'aperto

It's early Thursday morning. People are at work in Piazza Duomo and the surrounding streets setting up their stands and tents to display a huge variety of fares and wares. The market is open. Soon the streets fill up with people, some looking for fresh food and produce, others for bargains and deals, and some just out for a walk to enjoy and observe. Rain or shine, hot or cold, this is the scene every Thursday in Trento.

The streets come alive with shoppers and merchants - la rosticceria - roast chicken, skewered meats and patatine fritte - il fruttivendolo - fresh fruits, vegetables and honey - la pescheria - fish and shellfish, and after all that, there's clothing and cookware, flowers and plants, and shoes and leather goods, too. Whatever your needs, there's something for you at the Thursday market.

Link: probably the best fruit and veggie stall in Trento

Sotto la piazza

An ordinary piazza, large enough to be used for concerts and festivals throughout the year, cafés, shops and a large theater line the perimeter of Piazza Battisti in Trento. There is, however, one unusual feature of this piazza - stairs!

Below lie the ruins of Tridentum, the roman city that occupied this part of the region almost 2000 years ago. Descending the stairs, hints of the old city come into view - stretches of city walls and stairways, large mosaics and parts of old buildings. Among ruins and along old stone roads, a walk into the past is just under the piazza.

Link: Tridentum romana

I vigneti e i fiori di mela

The vineyards and apple groves, seen throughout Trentino on hills and in valleys, along roadsides and around towns, are evidence that agriculture is an important industry in the region.

Apple blossoms sweeten the air and brighten the landscape in spring, while grapevines, stretching across wire trellises, turn hillsides a lush green. As harvest approaches in early fall, the vines and trees are full of fruit, a result of the care and patience provided throughout the summer. In early fall, harvest begins, and the fruit of a small apple grove is plucked within a morning. Tractors clog the streets, towing huge crates of produce from the local farms to local cooperatives, wine makers and even the local supermercati. Look for the large green crates in the middle of the produce departments of the local supermarkets - straight from the farm to the store.

Salita al castello - Castello di Arco

Winding up a rocky hill amoung olive trees, stone walls and boulders, rooftops giving way to a spectacular view of the valley and lake to the south, the path finally comes to the entrance of the Castello di Arco. The ruins of this medieval castle are impressive - three huge walls of its main tower remain standing; the surrounding foundations leave to one's imagination the impression of the structure that once stood here; and a tower sits atop the summit, standing guard over the village and valley below.

Tip: On its way to Arco from Trento, the bus makes its way through Sarche and the Valle dei Laghi towards Lago di Garda. Along the way, look for the picturesque Castello di Toblino on the lake, Castel Drena atop a hill, beautifully illuminated at night, and an odd-looking sea of boulders that are part of the Marocche di Dro.

Link: More Photos

I colli e le montange di Trento

Once in Trento, the first thing you notice are the surrounding hills and mountains. The Paganella dominates in the northwest over the steep walls of the smaller Sorasass. Oddly, the peaks of the other mountain range to the west, Monte Bondone, sometimes called Trento's alp, since the communities atop are part of the city's local jurisdiction, can only be seen from outside the city in the higher elevations to the east, including Monte Calisio, M. Celva and the Marzola.

Though unlikely, legend states that the old city of Tridentum, Trento's name under Roman rule, was derived from the three hills, Dos Trento, Dos Sant'Agata and Dosso di San Rocco, that surround the city.

Regardless, the mountains are all easily accessible and a stimulating hike is only a local bus ride or cable car run away. Old forts and military roads, crosses and graves, rifugi and picnic areas can be found throughout the region and add to the enjoyment of any trek.












Link: Map of the hills and mountains surrounding Trento