Il mercato all'aperto

It's early Thursday morning. People are at work in Piazza Duomo and the surrounding streets setting up their stands and tents to display a huge variety of fares and wares. The market is open. Soon the streets fill up with people, some looking for fresh food and produce, others for bargains and deals, and some just out for a walk to enjoy and observe. Rain or shine, hot or cold, this is the scene every Thursday in Trento.

The streets come alive with shoppers and merchants - la rosticceria - roast chicken, skewered meats and patatine fritte - il fruttivendolo - fresh fruits, vegetables and honey - la pescheria - fish and shellfish, and after all that, there's clothing and cookware, flowers and plants, and shoes and leather goods, too. Whatever your needs, there's something for you at the Thursday market.

Link: probably the best fruit and veggie stall in Trento

Sotto la piazza

An ordinary piazza, large enough to be used for concerts and festivals throughout the year, cafés, shops and a large theater line the perimeter of Piazza Battisti in Trento. There is, however, one unusual feature of this piazza - stairs!

Below lie the ruins of Tridentum, the roman city that occupied this part of the region almost 2000 years ago. Descending the stairs, hints of the old city come into view - stretches of city walls and stairways, large mosaics and parts of old buildings. Among ruins and along old stone roads, a walk into the past is just under the piazza.

Link: Tridentum romana

I vigneti e i fiori di mela

The vineyards and apple groves, seen throughout Trentino on hills and in valleys, along roadsides and around towns, are evidence that agriculture is an important industry in the region.

Apple blossoms sweeten the air and brighten the landscape in spring, while grapevines, stretching across wire trellises, turn hillsides a lush green. As harvest approaches in early fall, the vines and trees are full of fruit, a result of the care and patience provided throughout the summer. In early fall, harvest begins, and the fruit of a small apple grove is plucked within a morning. Tractors clog the streets, towing huge crates of produce from the local farms to local cooperatives, wine makers and even the local supermercati. Look for the large green crates in the middle of the produce departments of the local supermarkets - straight from the farm to the store.

Salita al castello - Castello di Arco

Winding up a rocky hill amoung olive trees, stone walls and boulders, rooftops giving way to a spectacular view of the valley and lake to the south, the path finally comes to the entrance of the Castello di Arco. The ruins of this medieval castle are impressive - three huge walls of its main tower remain standing; the surrounding foundations leave to one's imagination the impression of the structure that once stood here; and a tower sits atop the summit, standing guard over the village and valley below.

Tip: On its way to Arco from Trento, the bus makes its way through Sarche and the Valle dei Laghi towards Lago di Garda. Along the way, look for the picturesque Castello di Toblino on the lake, Castel Drena atop a hill, beautifully illuminated at night, and an odd-looking sea of boulders that are part of the Marocche di Dro.

Link: More Photos

I colli e le montange di Trento

Once in Trento, the first thing you notice are the surrounding hills and mountains. The Paganella dominates in the northwest over the steep walls of the smaller Sorasass. Oddly, the peaks of the other mountain range to the west, Monte Bondone, sometimes called Trento's alp, since the communities atop are part of the city's local jurisdiction, can only be seen from outside the city in the higher elevations to the east, including Monte Calisio, M. Celva and the Marzola.

Though unlikely, legend states that the old city of Tridentum, Trento's name under Roman rule, was derived from the three hills, Dos Trento, Dos Sant'Agata and Dosso di San Rocco, that surround the city.

Regardless, the mountains are all easily accessible and a stimulating hike is only a local bus ride or cable car run away. Old forts and military roads, crosses and graves, rifugi and picnic areas can be found throughout the region and add to the enjoyment of any trek.












Link: Map of the hills and mountains surrounding Trento

Salita al castello - Castel Beseno

As you make your way uphill from the town of Besenello, Castel Beseno, atop an imposing hill, appears amoung houses, trees and shops. Winding your way up and around, anticipation builds as you approach the castle, and walls and towers come into and go out of view. If you only have time to visit one castle in Trentino, this should be the one. Likely the largest fortified structure in Trentino, it's a combination of castle, a bit of ruins and a small museum. The museum consists mostly of medieval weapons, but has an 'armor room' where visitors can actually try on various components of 'knight-wear'. The castle grounds are very well maintained and open-air windows offer magnificent views throughout the site. The south courtyard, with stairs leading to a wall walk, yields spectacular views of the valley and towns below. Back in the interior courtyard, look for the dungeon below and some old frescos in some of the recently restored towers above.

Tip: Take the #301 bus from Trento and get off at Besenello. Look for Via Castel Beseno and follow it to the top. Be sure to make a note of the times for the return bus.

Links:
Castel Beseno

More Photos

Dos Trento

Though a park today, Dos Trento, the somewhat odd looking hill across the river from the train station, has evidence throughout that it has been an important part of the region throughout history. Atop there are ruins of an early christian basilica, and fossils of tiny sea creatures suggesting a watery past before human settlement. On the way up, from the west entrance, there is a napoleonic fort and caves that appear to be weapons caches carved out by the Austrians during WWI. At the quiet summit, the Alpine Troops Museum and the mausoleum and monument to Cesare Battisti stand today, and various punto panoramico yield breathtaking views of the river, downtown trento and valley below, and the surrounding mountains.

Tip: The walk to the top is only about 20 minutes. Enter from the access road off Via Cosma e Damiano on the west side across from the tunnel of the circonvallazione to see the old fort and caves. Construction on the south and southeast side, on Via Brescia, is probably completed by now and allows for easy access to the top.

Links:
Museo Storico delle Truppe Alpine
Map - Dos Trento Hike
More Photos

Lungo il fiume

As you stroll along the Adige River on the tree-lined paths between Trento's two main bridges, Ponte San Giorgio and Ponte San Lorenzo, you notice the swift, but gentle current, while cyclists pass by, people walk their dogs, and fishermen below wait for a catch. Colorful buildings line the, at times, busy streets. The monument on Dos Trento and the 13th century church, la chiesa di S. Apollinare, come into view as the cable car begins its quick ascent towards Sardagna from the station near the San Lorenzo bridge.

Though most days are about as pleasantly uneventful as this, keep an eye out for the unusual. Perhaps a shepherd may lead a flock of sheep across the city streets to the edge of the river to be watered, or the vigili del fuoco may conduct a rescue drill, moving up and down the river in a rubber dinghy.

At the end of June, this stretch of the river comes alive during the Festa di San Vigilio. Local teams float downriver in costume on wooden rafts, cross several times, and, reminiscent of a Survivor-style
immunity challenge, pause at certain points to accomplish particular tasks, including hitting a target with an arrow, putting a ring on a large duck, throwing a ball into a net, and finally, ringing a buzzer mounted on the bridge. The winning team completes every task (not many do in the swift current) in the shortest amount of time possible.

Come si chiamano queste strade?

As if to remind italian citizens, and visitors, of the country's rich history and culture, city streets are creatively named after important historical figures, historical and geographical landmarks, and even significant historical dates.

In Trento, there are streets named after Alcide De Gasperi, prime minister of Italy (1945 to 1953) and born in Trentino, Eugenio Prati, a Trentino painter, and Cesare Battisti, a Trento-born martyr executed by the Austrians in WWI. Street names with dates include Via 24 Maggio, 1915, which commemorates Italy's entrance into WWI, Corso 3 Novembre, 1918, commemorating the signing of the Armistice of Villa Giusti at the end of WWI giving Italy control of Trentino-Alto Adige, and Via 4 Novembre, 1918, commemorating the reuinification of Italy after the war.

Some streets near prominent local landmarks are named appropriately, calling attention to old buildings, structures and towers, such as Via Torre Vanga, one of the first towers to be seen upon entering the city from the west, and Via Dietro le Mura, the street behind the old wall on the opposite side of Piazza Fiera.











Link: Paintings by Eugenio Prati

I castelli di Trentino II

Link: Map of Trentino Castles

Valle dei Laghi

Castel Terlago, Terlago







Castel Toblino, Lago di Toblino








Castello di Arco, Arco











Castello Penede, Nago








Rocca di Riva, Riva del Garda










Val di Non

Castel Nanno, Nanno





Castel Valer, Tassullo








Castel Clés, Clés






Val Giudicarie


Castel Sténico, Sténico

I castelli di Trentino I

Scattered throughout Trentino are dozens of castles, each unique, in varying conditions, some in ruins, some fully restored. Whether as a city fortress or a walled, feudal village, each castle served a different purpose and, today, stand as a testiment to the rich history and culture of the region. Presently, some castles are abandoned, some are used as museums and others used as private residences. The following, listed by location, are just some of the many castles to see in Trentino. Many are worth a visit, others, just a drive-by. Of these, the castles in Trento, Rovereto, Besenello, Arco, Pergine and Toblino are the most easily accessible, most interesting and most fun to visit. (More to come on these in later posts!)

Link: Map of Trentino Castles

Val d'Adige

Castello di Buonconsiglio, Trento




Castello di Rovereto, Rovereto








Castel Beseno, Besenello






Valsugana


Castel Pèrgine, Pèrgine Valsugana








Castel Selva, Lévico






Castel Telvana, Borgo Valsugana







Castel Ivano, Strigno